Contributor: Keith Barnes and Cobie Szigety
This will be brief for now but I will get back into it and update as much as possible..
Step one.. Buy a weld on mount : http://www.monstergy6.com/ruckus_motor%20_mounts.htm or http://www.mojo-customs.com/gy6-mounts.html .
The weld on mount is the only motor mount that works with Chucks.
Step two.. Buy a motor. GY6 150 engines run right around $350 shipped. And that includes carb, intake manifold, solenoid, cdi, rectifier and brake shoes.
Also if you want the baddest motor you can possibly have, Contact David Bullock on the Chuckus Life Facebook Group. e builds the best motors money can buy.
Step three.. Disassemble and clean up your frame..
Cut this off
Cut this off and clean up the bar..
Clean up some more but you get the point..
Get your Mount and tabs ( The mount welds on first, the tabs allow you to correctly offset your motor so that your tires are lined up)
Have your mount welded up or weld it on yourself.. Use the ends of the seat frame as a mark for where to line up the mojo mount..
At this point do the community and yourself a favor, get a 80 grit flap disc from home depot, and clean off the frame from your old paint and clean up the weld joints with jb weld and body filler for a smooth look.. No one wants to see painted over weld joints!! (that’s just my opinion)
Moving on to the more difficult part..
Offset and the infamous where to weld those tabs up question…
This worked for me but it may not work for you depending on your rear tire etc..
Here are some additional photos of where exactly I welded my tabs to get my offset..
Mojo Mount Weld Points
Use two separate bolts and nuts (keep your long motor bolt from your 50cc lol) tighten those bolts so that the tabs stay upright and adjust until your wheel is aligned up and that’s where you will weld your tabs. *** make sure once u have the wheels lined up to push the motor forward causing your tabs to angle back about 1/4 an inch which will keep the front of the motor at the right angle when u finally mount it.. tack weld remove the bolts finish the weld and then mount it back up with the long bolt or the two bolts (your choice)
The next part of this is about the carb.. Yes you can run the carb facing forward, it only effects performance when you are drag racing lol.. With that being said you will need an angled clocking flange.. Buy whichever brand you like but this is the one that I have.
http://www.shop.theruckshop.com/TRS-ALL … MM-ALL.htm
Also make sure you have a good intake manifold that has a 90 degree angle and unlike some of the other more fancy ones on the market..
Wrong Intake manifold.. (notice how the carb is angled up.. bad ju ju)
Right Intake Manifold.. ( you may not notice but its almost level to the ground)
Once you get the Intake Manifold which you may want to go shorter I cut a box out of the plastic in the seat (Hasn’t effected the ride at all) to clear the throttle cable..
Seat Modification
Here is how it looks installed with the seat.. Oh and once you actually sit down and the shock lowers its self it clears completely without even needing the seat to be cut but i cut the seat to avoid it touching at all if that makes sense.
This is a little random, but here is where I installed the Mikuni fuel pump to the existing holes on the cross member as well as the coil.. I like it you may not but here it is anyway.
Fuel Pump Option
Fuel Pump, Coil Option
Rear wheels. The rear wheel hub from the Maddog 50cc does not fit the new engine. So you have 2 options.
If you want to run the stock Maddog wheel you will need to buy a Stock Maddog 150cc hub. Contact Alan Adams to buy one on the Chuckus Life Facebook group.
If you want to run new wheel buy an aftermarket hub and short axle and then you can run any wheel youd like. Hubs, wheels and axles are covered in depth on this site. So take a look.
Hopefully this has helped out some if not I apologize in advance and hope you find what you are looking for! Good luck and God Bless..
Enjoy the fruits of your labor!
